Since 1840, the K.u.K. Hofzuckerbäcker Heiner has been handcrafting exquisite pastries and sweets. One of Austria’s most famous desserts—the Kardinalschnitte —was also created by this family-owned business.
by Sarah Heftberger
When Andreas Rabel founded the company in 1840, Vienna was in a period of economic upswing – the early phase of industrialization had just begun, and the cultural life of the bourgeoisie was flourishing. It was therefore a perfect time for Rabel’s bakery, which was ideally located on the elegant Wollzeile and quickly became very popular among Vienna’s residents. The high reputation of the café-confectionery among the public did not go unnoticed by the Imperial Court, and under Rabel’s son-in-law Valentin Heiner – who had previously been appointed Royal Bavarian Court Supplier – “Heiner” was added to the list of Viennese court suppliers. Valentin’s son and successor Ludwig Heiner was subsequently awarded the title of „K.u.K. Hofzuckerbäcker“ by the Austrian Emperor.
“This title is unique; it is an award that can no longer be obtained today, and from which we still benefit,” emphasizes managing director Michael Stuller in an interview with Diplomatic SOCIETY at the charming café on Simmeringer Hauptstraße, which is directly connected to the bakery.
However, the collapse of the monarchy and the Great Depression also brought challenges for Heiner. It was only after the end of the Second World War that Berta Heiner, the widow of Ludwig Heiner, was able to revive the business. Under the leadership of her son Walther Stuller, additional branches were eventually opened on Kärntner Straße and in Perchtoldsdorf.
In 1977, the company received another official recognition of its culinary achievements: the Republic of Austria awarded it the State Seal of Approval. Since then, in addition to the double-headed imperial eagle, the coat of arms of the Republic may also be used on company documents.
Today, Heiner – led since 2021 by Michael Stuller and his wife Verena Eissner-Eissenstein – combines long-standing tradition with contemporary adaptation. “We want to preserve well-known products that are often no longer widely available, but at the same time create something that appeals to a younger audience,” says Stuller, whose parents previously managed the family business for decades. Whenever possible, Heiner sources its ingredients from regional suppliers, with quality being the top priority.
Another defining feature of Heiner is the strong family spirit, which extends to its 135 employees. Equally important are the loyal regular customers who have been visiting the six branches of the k.u.k. court confectioner for years. “They are also the best guardians of our quality, because they know our products best – if a pastry chef is on holiday, it is noticed immediately,” Stuller, himself a trained confectioner, says with a smile.
Creator of Kardinalschnitte
One of Austria’s most famous pastries also originates from this traditional Viennese company. Ludwig Heiner created the distinctive Kardinalschnitte in 1933 on the occasion of the Catholic Day. Its yellow and white colours were intended to represent the colours of the Vatican.
He first piped strips of white meringue and yellow sponge batter onto baking paper, baked them, turned them over, and then spread apricot jam on them before layering them together. Almost 100 years later, his creation has become an inseparable part of Austria’s pastry culture.
“The Kardinalschnitte is our unique selling point, and we are very proud of it,” emphasize Stuller and Eissner-Eissenstein in the interview.
Looking ahead, the two aim to continue representing the full diversity of the traditional Viennese confectionery craft. “I believe we are already doing quite well in that regard,” concludes Eissner-Eissenstein.